飞天舞 2008-5-19 01:39
空气凤梨知识汇编（附图）
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Air Plants
In this section: Mounting & attaching Air Plants / Tillandsia suitable for terrariums & vivariums.
Mounting Air Plants
OK so you go out one day, and while wondering around somewhere you see some Air Plants. You go over and take a look at all these strange looking plants, just sat there growing in thin air. As you're looking at them you see a plant that cries out to you "Take me home with you please !! ", so being the kind hearted person that you are, you hand over the money and walk away with your new friend. You get home, take it out of it's bag, hold it up and admire you new prized plant. Now what are you going to do with it ? This is where the fun starts.
Planting your Tillandsia
NEVER 'plant' your Tillandsia, putting a Tillandsia in soil is almost certain death to your plant. If you want it in a pot to look like a normal plant and you need to add some weight to stop it falling over, use gravel, pebbles or any other medium that drains rapidly. If your plant is placed in anything that holds water or moisture and doesn't dry out between waterings it will ROT!!! ................... This is not a good thing !!!
Mounting your Tillandsia
Tillandsias can be grown basically anywhere, on rocks, in a seashell or on coral, in ceramic or pottery, attached to wood (not pressure treated wood this is impregnated with copper, and copper will kill your plant). Pin them on your curtains, make a wreath, attach to velcro and stick them on your mirror, attach them to a piece of wood and hang the wood in your tree (that way you can bring your plant in when its going to freeze). Glue onto a pebble or decorative stone, attach to magnets, hang on your front door, attach them to a piece of lattice so they can be hung indoors or outdoors, put them in terrariums (great decorations for use with lizards, snakes etc.). About the only limit is your imagination (with a few exceptions).
When considering what you are going to do with your plant don't forget that you have to be able to water it and it has to be placed somewhere that it will get sufficient light. Also if you have a young plant it is going to grow, hopefully, so don't mount it on something that will be too small for it when it has grown to full size.
Don't rush into mounting your plant, take some time to figure out just what to do with it, your plant will be quite happy just sat on your kitchen counter until you make up your mind (if you ever do).
Many Tillandsia grown just hanging from a wooden peg or piece of fishing line will eventually form spheres in a few years, and look spectacular grown this way, and will only have to be separated when the center eventually falls apart. Tillandsias will grow in any direction, they do not need to be grown upright like most other plants, you want it hanging sideways fine, at an angle fine, you even see them growing naturally upside down, so whichever way you pick your plant will grow. The options are endless, all it requires is imagination.
If attaching to ocean driftwood, soak the wood for several weeks to remove the salt residue, too much salt will damage your plants and cause tip die back. Good woods resistant to decay are cedar, manzanita or grape. Cork bark and tree fern are also good choices.
Try not to put Tillandsias in containers that hold water, they need to dry out. If you do place your plant in something that holds water, empty out the excess after watering your plant. The same thing applies when mounting your plant on something, try to place your plant on a high point rather than in a hollow.
A lot of people mount Tillandsia on small decorative fountains and waterfalls, if you intend to do this make sure that the plants is not going to be getting splashed with water all the time.
The moss you see on air plants in stores is cosmetic only, and is normally just used to hide glues and staples. It is detrimental to your plant, do not use it, it holds too much moisture at the base of the plant.
If your plant has roots on it and they are in your way, or they just look unsightly, you can cut them off. Tillandsias only use there roots as anchors to hold on with, you will not harm the plant in any way by removing them, it may or may not regrow them.
Just in case you haven't noticed there is one thing that keeps coming up in the tips on mounting your Tillandsia. Whatever you do with your plant make sure it is going to be able to dry out totally after you have watered it. Tillandsia hate to have wet feet all the time.
Attaching your Plant
You can use glue, wire, fishing line, twisty ties, nails or staples.
We use E6000 glue as it is waterproof and dries clear, but you can use any kind of glue you like (except SUPERGLUE) a plumbers glue is generally better because it is waterproof and doesn't break down, hot glue and liquid nails tend to give way after a while because of constantly getting wet, Goop, Shoe Goo and Tilly Tacker are completely waterproof, and will not let go. When using glue, only use enough to hold the plant where you want it.
If using wire, make sure you don't use copper wire unless it's got a plastic coating (copper kills Tillandsia).
Nails and staples can only be used on plants with a woody stolon or with sufficient roots, nailing or stapling through the growing part of a plant would kill it.
Tillandsia in the terrarium / vivarium
Make sure you have a least one open (mesh) side to your terrarium to provide adequate air circulation. The only problems generally encountered with terrarium growth, is bad air flow, or conditions too wet for the plants. Remember Tillandsia need to dry out completely in between waterings. Some of these species grow large, be aware of this when picking you plant.
Tillandsias suitable for use in terrariums and vivariums :-
Abdita Albida Brachycaulos Bulbosa Concolor
Duratii Flabellata Funckiana Geminiflora Harrisii
Hondurensis Ionantha Ixioides Juncea Stolonifera Latifolia
Mitlaensis Neglecta Paleacea Pseudobaileyi Purpurea
Stricta Tricolor
Information about air plants care, watering, lighting, temperature & fertilizing.
Air Plants Care
Ionantha ( Mexican ) Mexico
In this section we are going to try and give you basics on how to care for you plant. It should not be taken as gospel on how to care for all species of Tillandsia as some of them are very specialized, but it should work well for most of the common ones that you are likely to find for commercial sale.
It is split up in to the following 4 sections :-
1. Watering
2. Lighting
3. Temperature
4. Fertilizing
Watering
One of the most common things we hear people say is " I had one of these plants once but it died ", the first thing we ask is " How were you watering it ? "
Watering is one of the most important aspects of succeeding with Tillandsias, and one of the most misunderstood. Because their common name is Air Plants people tend to think of these plants as needing little or no water (as living on air). This is the biggest mistake you can make. Tillandsias NEED water, although they can survive for long periods of drought, they are NOT GROWING and certainly not thriving in these conditions, they are going dormant and just trying to survive, and will eventually die if water is scarce for too long, though its amazing how long they'll "hang in there" with very little water.
Now having said that, your plant will also rot and die if left wet for too long..............
Basically this means your plant wants water, but needs to dry out completely before being watered again. Plants should be given enough light and air circulation to dry in no longer than 4 hours after watering. It's best to water your plants in the morning so they dry by nightfall.
Humidity is NOT a source of water for your plant. Tillandsias can only obtain their water if it is sat on their leaves, in nature through dew, fog and rain. Humidity only delays the drying process. Tillandsias are covered in suction scales (trichomes) which capture moisture, these scales automatically close when your plant has enough moisture. Get to know your plant, handle the leaves, after watering the leaves will feel stiff and full of water, when in need of water they will be softer to the touch and the plant will be lighter in color. Dehydration can be noticed by flaccid, wrinkled or rolled leaves.
Water Quality
Generally speaking water quality is not important to Tillandsias, they do not tend to show water spots and are basically only susceptible to pH8 or higher, or too much salt. Artificially softened water has too much sodium (salt) for Tillandsias and should not be used as it will slowly cause die back. Distilled water is too pure and will actually pull nutrients out of the plant tissue causing death, NEVER use distilled water. Tillandsia like moving air not closed stuffy conditions.
Watering Schedule
Your plant needs to be watered regularly, at least 2 to 3 times per week. Misting is generally not sufficient even if done daily, they need to be watered (underneath as well as on top) to the point of runoff as though they've just gone through a rain storm, AT LEAST twice a week. The easiest way to achieve this is to actually immerse the whole plant in the sink or a bucket if possible, if not, use a hose or the kitchen faucet to totally wet your plant. Your plant will also appreciate a good soaking for several hours every one to two weeks (although never submerge the blooming flower for more than a few seconds, or the petals will dissolve, of course if you're going away for several weeks it is more important to give your plant sufficient water, than to the preserving of the bloom). In extremely dry conditions, or in the house or office with air conditioning or heating going, your plant may require more water, if your plant looks dry (check in the leaf sheaths, and the base of the plant) you could water daily if required, as long as the plant dries out before being watered again, you will not cause harm to the plant (there are exceptions to this rule, if you've purchased a different care plant you should have been informed). Shake out any excess water from your plant container, don't forget your plant wants to dry out by nightfall, not to be left sat in water. Shake off any excess water from fleshy plants. Give thin leaf varieties an extra spray on their tips as they dry out faster.
If totally confused about whether or not to water, pull at an outside leaf, if it comes off easily it doesn't need water, if its tough to pull off it needs watering. ( NOTE :- Please don't do this too often or you wont have much of a plant left. )
Reviving a neglected plant
If you have a plant that's been neglected, don't throw it away if there's any green left anywhere on the plant. Instead immerse your plant in water up to a maximum of 12 hours and for another 4 hours 2 or 3 days later, then resume a GOOD watering cycle, quite often the plant will recover, and even though you will have leaf damage your plant should still produce pups for you. Look after the pups better.
Vacationing
If you are going on a short vacation (under one month). Soak your plant for 4 hours 3 days before you go then soak again for 12 hours immediately before you leave, place the plant in a shady (not dark) spot and go ENJOY your vacation. Upon returning your plant will show a little leaf damage and will look dehydrated, immediately soak for 12 hours and for another 4 hours 2 or 3 days later, then resume normal watering, your plant should start to revive several hours after immersion. Your plant just went dormant while you were on vacation, given good water and light it will wake up again.
If your are going for several months. In the frost free months place your plant outside where your sprinkler system will water it for you (be careful to place in a light or medium shade area, not under bushes where it is deep shade.) If you have nowhere like this, use an old umbrella to form a mini shade house (don't use a black umbrella). We grow all our plants in Florida and are gone from Easter to Halloween. We leave our plants under 50% shade cloth and use a "Mr Mister" (very cheap from Lowes) and a battery operated "Rainmaker" timer to water the plants for us, so far we have never had any problems, the batteries last the whole time we're away, the plants get watered, and we don't need anyone else to help, and when we get back we've got LOTS more plants than when we left.
Lighting
Adequate light is the second most important factor in growing a strong healthy plant, water being the first.
Give your plant as bright a light as you can, without causing burning. Indoors we recommend no further than 10 feet from a window or skylight. Outdoors under a tree, carport, patio or shade cloth would be ideal. Partial sun for an hour or so in the morning or evening should be okay, but you should avoid all day direct sun.
Be careful of placing directly in south facing windows as the amplified heat may cause excessive drying of the plant and burning (good air circulation i.e. the window open to conduct the heat away from the plant should stop this problem).
In Offices fluorescent lighting will normally provides the proper color range for good plant growth, this can always be supplemented with a desk lamp if necessary.
If your plant looses its color after blooming, this is natural, all its energy is now going into producing pups. If your plant (especially ionanthas) looses its color before blooming its not getting sufficient light, move to a lighter location.
Having said all that remember full sun and partial sun are very different in summer and winter, and the intensity is very different in Michigan than Florida.
For the technical out there here are the numbers. For the non technical skip the next bit so you don't get confused.
Most Tillandsia will grow well at light levels of around 20,000 lux for 12 hours a day. They will grow with better shape and color at levels of 30,000 - 40,000 lux. It is impossible to guess light intensity by eye, so if you don't have a light meter these numbers are of no use to you.
To give you a rough idea of what these numbers mean :-
We live in Florida, in summer around noon we measure around 100,000 lux on a clear day. In the winter we get around 70,000 lux. For growing plants outdoors this means, in the summer we use a 60% shade cloth, in the winter we use a 40% shade cloth, that way we get around 40,000 lux that we are aiming for.
Temperature
Tillandsias are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures from near freezing in winter to over 100F in summer. Optimum temperature range for tillandsias is 50 - 90 degrees F with a 10 degree drop at night. Most will survive a light frost but will have some leaf damage, but should still produce pups for you. A frost for more than a few hours will kill your plant.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing Tillandsia is not really necessary, but it will result in faster growth, better flowers and more pups. When fertilizing your plant be very careful not to over do it, Tillandsias are very susceptible to over fertilization. Over fertilizing or using the wrong kind of fertilizer is a very good way to kill your plant.
So for those of you that want EXTRA HAPPY plants here's the info :-
Use a good WATER SOLUBLE fertilizer at 1/4 the strength recommended on the label, and use it only once a month.
(N) Nitrogen - should be in the form of ammonium or nitrate NOT UREA ( Urea needs the bacteria in soil to break it down, and you have no soil, hence not a good idea.) Can also build-up and cause damage.
(P) Phosphorus - an excess is not harmful and helps combat an excess of Nitrogen.
(K) Potassium - in large amounts - excess not harmful.
NO copper, boron or zinc - or minimal quantities under 0.5% are okay. Most don't say, but choose an acidic fertilizer by choice.
A good mix would be 1-1.5 - 2.0 or 10-15-20 try and keep the nitrogen low in comparison to the P and at least half the K.
Shipping / Transporting
Tillandsias travel and ship well. When shipping, water two days (or a minimum of 24 hours) before shipping, by soaking for several hours, but always make sure your plant is completely dry for the actual shipping, upon arrival give your plants another good soaking to revive them.
Plants that are transported when wet have problems because of the lack of air circulation, and if shipping is delayed or lost, could eventually arrive with rot problems (shiny brown spots). NEVER wrap your plants in plastic bags, wrap in paper to avoid bruising to the plant.
What are Tillandsia?
Bulbosa (giant red form) Belize
What are Air Plants?
Tillandsia are part of the Bromeliad family, the Genus name is Tillandsia which is also the common name, these are further broken down into species name, most people just call them Air plants. There are over 550 species of Tillandsia (plus many hybrids), that grow in the Mexico, South and Central Americas. They grow naturally only in the New World, with the exception of only one species. There are only 16 species that are native of Florida.
Tillandsias take all their water and nutrients through the leaf system, none or very minimal amounts are absorbed by the root system. This root system is used as wire like anchors to hold onto trees, rocks etc. Since the root system is not important to the plant this can be removed without harm, to make make your plant easier to mount. The roots may or may not grow back, either way is doesn't matter to the welfare of your plant.
Growth Cycle
Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups which in turn will mature, generally within a year and in turn bloom and produce pups. So this year you have one plant, next year maybe 6, the next year 36 and so on. Your plant will actually look better next year than this year as it starts to clump and produce more blooms. The bad news is that each plant will only flower once in its lifetime, but you should have blooms each year as the pups mature, and in turn flower. Flowers can last from several days to many months, depending on the species, most Tillandsia bloom naturally in late winter through mid-summer.
General Info
Tillandsias DO have to be watered, they live 'in' air, not 'on' air.
Tillandsias are NOT toxic to animals, although this does not mean your pet won't eat them, but they will survive the experience, your plant might not.
Tillandsias are NOT parasitic, they do not harm the host tree.
Trim away brown, bent or damaged leaves, this will not hurt the plant.
Main reasons Tillandsias die
They were not initially cared for properly (their owner was told they need little or no water).
They did not get enough light (they were more than 10 feet from a bright window or skylight).
They were placed in DIRECT SUN. Garden windows are generally too warm unless they are shaded or facing north.
They were not watered thoroughly and frequently. Bulby and fleshy Tillandsias can rot! Drain them thoroughly and water less frequently.
Tillandsias growing outdoors need more watering than indoor Tillandsias, as the sun and wind dry them out more quickly.
PLEASE read the air plants care section on watering - this is one of the most important aspects of growing Tillandsias successfully.
Flowering Airplants
Fuchsii Fuchsii - Mexcio
As mentioned earlier each plant will only flower once. Once the flower has dried up we suggest you remove the old petals and cut off the flower stalk, as this promotes pupping.
Most (but not all) pups are produced one to two months AFTER flowering, when this starts to happen you may notice the bottom leaves of your plant starting to hang loose, and they may look dried out, as if they are dying. DO NOT be tempted to pull these leaves off (trim them if they look too unsightly) this is where your pup is starting, and if you pull the leaves off, you may pull the pup off by mistake, initially they as so small just like little nubs and you may not be able to see them for several weeks or months depending on the species.
Removing Air Plant Pups
Fuchsii Fuchsii Pups
Most people prefer not to remove pups, as plants look more impressive as a clump or cluster. If you leave your plant to clump just remove the leaves of the mother plant as she starts to dry up, just pull the leaves out with a gentle sideways tug, if the leaf resists, its not dead yet, so just trim any dried areas instead. Once you've fully removed the mother plant, the gap that's left will quickly be filled in by the other plants growing & spreading.
If you decide to remove the pups, wait until they are at least 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant, they will be able to survive on their own at this size. Hold both mother and pup at their bases and gently twist in a downward motion, the pups come off easily. If you have a particularly tough mother you may need to remove the pup by cutting downward as close to the mother as possible, there are very few species that need more than a gently tug/twist. Do not discard the mother plant yet, as long as she is still alive she will continue to produce more pups for you. Often taking several years after blooming before she finally dies.
How often will my plant flower ?
Tillandsia only bloom once in their lives, but that isn't the end of your plant. Your Tillandsia will start 'pupping' (having babies). She can have between 1 - 12 pups which will grow to replace the mother (some species can have up 60 pups).
How about putting them in trees ?
That's where they grow naturally, so yes you can
Can I mount my plants on driftwood (or cork, or whatever) ?
You can mount your plant virtually anywhere you like, as long as the mount doesn't hold water. Don't mount on pressure treated lumber, or anything containing copper. Copper is toxic to Tillandsias. See mounting air plants for more information.
How do I mount my plant ?
The easiest way is to use glue, pick a waterproof one as your plants will be getting watered frequently. You can also use fishing line, twist ties, staples and nails. See mounting air plants for more information.
Is sphagnum moss around the base of the plant a good idea ?
No. Tillandsias want to dry out completely between waterings, the moss could hold too much moisture around the base of the plant and cause it to rot. Some other types of Bromeliads do appreciate the moss, but not Tillandsias.
Do I have to water my plant ?
Of course you do, all plants need water. See air plants care - watering for more information.
Do Tillandsias need protection from cold ?
Yes, plan on protecting your plants when the temperature drops to about 35F. Frost will damage your plant, a freeze for more than a short duration will kill it.
How much light should I give my plants ?
Give your plant as much bright light as you can, without direct sunlight. The more light your plant gets the better color it will have. See airplants care - lighting for more information.
Can I grow Tillandsias in my house (or apartment) ?
Yes. We recommend that you place your plant no further than 10 feet from a window, closer is better.
My cat ate my plant.... What do I do ?
Well after you bury your cat......... Just joking.
Tillandsias are NOT toxic to animals, although this doesn't mean your pet won't eat them, but they will survive the experience, your plant might not.
How about artificial light ?
Normal incandescent light bulbs are inadequate, but fluorescent provide a good light source, as do halogen and grow lights.
Spot lights focus too much heat to be used successfully.
Help! Parasitic air plants are killing my tree.
I don't know what the problem with your tree is but it's not the Tillandsias fault. They are NOT parasitic, and will not harm your tree. I suggest that you ask a tree expert what the problem is, I know nothing about trees.
Can I put Tillandsia in my terrarium ?
As long as your terrarium has at least one open (mesh) side, to allow air flow, some Tillandsia can be used. Important read the information on the the Mounting - Terrarium page.
What does epiphyte mean ?
Not growing in soil, instead growing on other objects, such as trees. Not parasitic.
Is there a way to make them bloom ?
As long as you are tending to your plant correctly it will bloom all by itself when ready. If you are too impatient to let nature take it's own course Ethylene gas can induce blooming. A good source of Ethylene gas is a forest fire, but if you don't feel like running into a forest fire holding your prized plant, try covering your plant along with 1/2 an apple in a plastic bag , for about a week ( NOTE :- keep it out of the sun ). If your lucky your plant should bloom in a month or so. Beware if you force an immature plant to bloom it will normally result in inferior blooms and fewer and weaker pups.
Where do Tillandsias come from ?
The vast majority of species come from Central and South America.
Don't Tillandsia grow in trees in my own garden ?
I don't know, I've never seen the trees in your garden, but if you live in the southern United States it's quite possible. There are 17 species that are native to the USA.
How can my plant survive with no roots ?
Tillandsia only use their roots to anchor themselves with. They absorb all their water and nutrients through the leaves.
How do I plant my Tillandsia ?
NEVER, NEVER 'plant' your Tillandsia. Putting your plant in soil is a sure fired way to kill it.
Where do I put the water ?
Putting it on the plant is normally a good idea. When you water your plant you should make sure that it is totally covered in water, both the top and the under sides. After watering the plant should look like it's just been in a rain storm. See general care - watering for more information.
Do I have to fertilize my plant ?
Not if you don't want to. See airplants care - fertilizing for more information.
How do I fertilize since there's no soil ?
Spray your plant on all surfaces, top and bottom, as you would for normal watering. Do not soak your plant in fertilizer. Shake off any excess. See general care - fertilizing for more information.
Why doesn't my plant have a fragrance ?
There are very few Tillandsias that actually have a fragrance (only about 30 of over 550), but when they do it is very strong.
What is this fuzzy stuff on my plant ?
The fuzzy stuff (a bit like thick cobwebs) are seeds. If you pull this off, and place on a thin mesh (like nylon stockings) you will be able to propagate the seeds. This way of propagation takes a long time (3-5 years average) but can be very rewarding.
What do I do with the old bloom spike ?
When it starts to look too unsightly, cut it off if you want, otherwise just leave it (it will eventually shrink to nothing as the mother plant dies and the pups take over).
Can I use glue to mount my plant ?
Yes, we recommend a waterproof glue like E6000 but you can use any glue EXCEPT Superglue.
Will I have to remount my plant each year ?
Not unless you want to. If things get too crowded, you can either remove some pups, or remove the mother plant. See air plant pups for more information.
What happens if my plant gets too big ?
You should have thought of this when you bought it, you could give it away to a friend with more room or buy a bigger house. But really, most Tillandsias you purchase will be close to full size (there are exceptions, so ask what full size is going to be). If the clump gets too big, just split it down the same way you would separate pups off.
Will Tillandsia grow up North ?
Yes, but during the Winter months when the light quality is reduced, move your plants to the brightest place you can find. Mirrors around your plant look attractive, and also intensify the natural lighting.
空气凤梨
在这个篇文章里主要包括：空气凤梨的造型，附置以及适合的容器和场所。
空气凤梨的造型：
当你有一天外出，在徘徊的途中发现一些空气凤梨，你上前观察这些植物，它们就生长在稀薄的空气中，随即你仿佛看到它们在向你呼喊：“快带我回家吧”，正好你是那么善良的一个人，于是你掏出钱来，然后带着你的新朋友离开了，回到了家里，把它从袋子里拿出，挂了起来，并赞美你得到的奖励品，现在你要怎么去管理它？这正是有趣的事情的开始。
种植空气铁兰：
不要试图种植你的铁兰，将它们种植在泥土中等于说杀死了它们，如果你想把你的铁兰种植在盆器中生长的正常，那么你就要加入一些比较重的基质，比如用沙砾，小圆石或其他任何可以迅速排水的介质，如果你的植株在一个比较潮湿的地方而长时间的干燥不了，那么它会腐烂，这是一件比较糟糕的事情。
铁兰的造型：
铁兰可以生长在任何地方，在月岩，贝壳或珊瑚石，以及陶粒或陶瓷器皿上，或附着在木块上（不要附着在带有铜的木头上，因为铜可以杀死你的植株）挂在你的窗帘上，做一个线圈或一个维可牢尼龙搭扣固定植株然后放到你的镜子上，或附一块木头把它挂在树上，（要求是当冷空气来临时你可以方便的把它取回），把它们粘在小圆石或用于装饰的石头上，附着在瓷器上挂在你的门前，也可以为它们制一个格子，这样你就可以方便的挂在户内或户外。将它们放在玻璃器皿里（是那些大的专养蜥蜴或蛇等动物的器皿），你可以根据你的想象来布置。
当考虑到怎样去管理时，不要忘记你要经常的对其喷水，并且放置在光照比较充足的地方，也许你有一株小幼苗，你希望它能健康生长，所以在它还没达到成熟植株大小之前请不要随意放置它。
不要急于定植你的铁兰，要花时间来思考一下采用什么样的方式去做，如果你动脑筋去思考了，你的植株会在你的花园里生长的很好。
很多铁兰被挂在小木头上或钓鱼线上在空气中生长了好几年，如果你仔细观察的话就会发现它的生长方式，当中心生长的没有空间的时候只有被重新分离，铁兰可以向任何方向生长，它们不像其他植物那样有生长点，你把它挂到外面，向着一个角度，你或许会发现它是在向下生长的，所以无论你怎样挂它，它的生长方向是无尽的，所有这些需要都是可以想象到的。
如果将它附在海生的浮木上，即使浸泡这些树木用以减少其内的盐分，但是残留的过多的盐分还是会腐蚀植物的生长点，好的树木应该防止腐烂的，比如雪松木，石兰科常绿灌木，葡萄树木和一些树皮以及蕨类植物
不要将铁兰放在易积水的地方，它们需要干燥的环境，如果你将铁兰放在一个容易积水的地方，请在喷水后及时除去残留在植株上的多余水分，将它们放在地势较高的地方，而不是较低的沟壑里。
很多人将铁兰放在喷泉或瀑布底下，如果你也想这么做，那么请保证铁兰不会被飞溅的水一直溅到。
也许在一些收藏品上你会看到有用青苔来装饰的，并且多是用胶水或纤维制作的，不要这样做，这样的话由于粘有青苔会使你的植株长期处于比较潮湿的环境，这样对植株是有害的。
如果你的空气铁兰有根并且看起来不美观，你可以剪掉它们，铁兰的根是用于固定作用的，剪掉这些根不会对植株的生长产生影响，它们会重新长出。
当你定植你的铁兰时，有一件事你要注意，那就是当你喷水后它能在短时间内迅速的干透，铁兰讨厌处在一直比较潮湿的环境。
定植铁兰：
你可以用胶水，铁线，钓鱼线，按扣或钉型器具。
我们用的是E6000的胶水，它防水并且干的比较快，你也可以用任何你喜欢的胶水（超级胶水除外），一种软管胶水是比较好的，因为它防水不容易脱落，热胶或液体钉状的比较好，使用后防水并且不易脱落，用胶水可以把铁兰固定在你需要的任何地方。
如果用铁线，请避免用铜制的，除非它的外面有一层塑料保护层。
按钮或钉用来固定铁兰时，当钉在木头上由于穿过了植株的体内，可能会导致植株死亡。
铁兰在玻璃容器或植物园：
要确保你的容器有一个相当大的开口，用以提供足够的空气，在玻璃容器中唯一需要注意的是空气的流通问题，记住浇水后要保证植株能迅速干透，不要给予过多的水分，还要有比较大的空间供比较大型的品种所需。
适合在玻璃容器或植物园的品种有：
Abdita Albida Brachycaulos Bulbosa Concolor
Duratii Flabellata Funckiana Geminiflora Harrisii
Hondurensis Ionantha Ixioides Juncea Stolonifera Latifolia
Mitlaensis Neglecta Paleacea Pseudobaileyi Purpurea
Stricta Tricolor
下面是关于铁兰的养护，浇水，光照，温度和肥料的信息。
浇水：
我们常听见有人说：我养过一些空气凤梨，但是后来却死掉了。首先我们要问：你是怎么样进行水分管理的。
浇水是是否能种植成功铁兰最重要的一方面。也是最容易被人误解的地方。因为它的名字是空气凤梨，所以人们便认为这些植物需要一点水或不需要水分（是生长在空气中的）,这是人们最容易范的错误。铁兰需要水分，尽管它们在干燥的条件下能生长很长时间，但是在这种干燥的条件下它们是处在休眠状态，只是为了能生存下来，如果长时间的干旱，它们同样会死亡，因此你有必要知道它们在干燥的条件下能生存多久。
可以这样说，你的植株在浸水或干旱持续很长时间的话，它们同样会腐烂或死亡。这些只说明你的植株需要水分。但是你必须保证在下次浇水之前它完全干透，这就要求有充足的阳光和良好的通风条件，以保证浇水后四小时内植株能完全干透，最好是在上午浇水，这样就能保证它们在夜间是干透的。
湿度对植株来说不是一种资源，铁兰只能吸收落在它叶片上的水分，在自然状态下这些水分是露，雾和雨水。湿度只能加强植株对干旱的抗性。铁兰上覆盖着一种毛状体，正是这些毛状体能吸收水分，当空气中有充足的水分时，它们会自动吸收。你可以根据叶子来判断植株，浇水后的叶片比较坚硬，挺立。当它需要水分的时候就会变得比较柔软，颜色也会变得比较光亮，如果叶片无活力，皱缩或卷曲，那说明植株要脱水了。
浇水质量：
一般来说水质对空气凤梨并不太重要，只要水的PH值不高于8或不含过多的盐分或过多的酸就行了，自来水会有过多的盐分使用后植株会慢慢的死亡，蒸馏水太纯净了，你的植株会因为缺少养分而死亡的，所以不要使用蒸馏水，铁兰喜欢流动的空气而不是单调的栽培条件。
浇水时间表：
你的植株要经常浇水，至少一周2－3次，喷雾并不能满足其需要，它们需要喷水（可以从下或从上开始），象雨水一样浸透的水分供应至少一周2次，最直接的方式是将它们放在盆或桶内浸泡，如果办不到，可以用一个胶管把你的植株完全淋湿，铁兰喜欢1－2周浸泡一次水（带有花苞的浸泡数秒即可，不要损伤到花瓣，如果你要外出一段时间就要事先给予充足的水分，注意不要损伤花朵）。在比较干燥的屋内，办公室或其他地方就需要为其提供较多的水分，如果你的植株比较干燥（观测叶片和基本构造），在缺水时你要及时的供应水分，这样做不会对它们造成伤害。（这只是一种例子，如果你买了需要特别照料的植株，你应该及时熟悉它），喷水后除去植株上残留的水分，并给于蒸发比较快并且比较薄弱的幼叶较多的水分供应。
检查被忽略的植株：
如果你的植株已经变得干枯或被忽略了，如果它们还带有任何的绿叶不要扔掉它们，可以将它浸泡在水中12小时，然后在接下来的三天里每天浸泡4小时，然后给予良好的水分供应，植株可以重新复苏，并且一些损伤的叶子还会生出很多比较好的幼芽来，要照看好这些幼芽。
度假：
如果你要去度假（不超过一个月），出发前几天可以每天浸泡植株4小时，连续三天，到出发的前一天浸泡12小时，然后把它们置放在比较遮荫的地方（不是黑暗的地方），然后便可以放心的去度假了，当你回来的时候，这些植株的叶片或许有些损伤甚至会脱水，你可以把它浸泡在水中12小时，随后的2－3天每天浸泡4小时，然后进行常规的水分管理，你的植株将会重新恢复活力，你的植株在你度假的时候会进入休眠状态，所以你给与好的水分条件，它自然会苏醒过来，恢复活力。
如果你要外出几个月，而你铁兰放置的地方正是严寒持续几个月的地方，你自己的喷水系统会为你的植株提供水分（注意这个放置的地方必须是明亮或者有点遮荫），如果没有这样的地方，你可以用一个破伞制作一个遮荫的房子（不要用黑色的伞），我们在佛罗里达州种植的铁兰一般是放在50％的遮荫网下，并用一个电池动力的定时浇水系统，我们从来没遇到过什么问题，，这些电池的电力足以在我们外出的时候维持运转，我们不需要其他人的帮忙，并且回来后发行我们又多了很多新的小幼株。
光照：
充足的光照是继浇水后对铁兰健康生长影响比较大的第二个因素。
尽可能的为你的植株提供明亮的光照条件，避免灼伤。在室内建议不要将植株放置在距离窗户或光照地点10英尺的地方，户外橡树下，车库，天井或荫网下都是比较好的，早晨或傍晚的太阳光对铁兰是比较好的，但是要避免过强的直射光。
注意朝南的窗户会产生较多的热量，植株容易干燥或被灼伤（但是经常性的打开窗以保持好的通风条件能避免这种情况的发生）。
在办公室内的光线比较弱，只能保证植株一段时间的需要，需要的话可以用台灯来补光。
如果植株在开花后逐渐褪去颜色，这是正常的。如果植株花后退色并且得不到足够的光照的话，你可以将它转移到比较大的空间里。
要记住全光照和部分的关照在冬天和夏天时的概念是不同的，其强度也是有所区别的。
对于这项技术的说明，我们给予一些数据，这样你可以借以参考。
大多数的铁兰需要的光照是20000勒克斯，并且每天光照12小时，在较好的遮荫条件下，光照最好在30000－40000勒克斯之间，这些数据用眼睛是观测不到的，如果你没有测光仪器，这些对你没有任何的用途。
可以给你一个更详细的说明：
我们住在佛罗里达州，夏天晴天的时候这里的光照大约为100000勒克斯，冬天大约在70000勒克斯左右，对于在户外生长的植株在夏天我们用60％的遮荫网，冬天则用40％的遮荫网，我们的目的是将光照控制在40000左右。
温度：
铁兰可以生存的温度范围是很大的，夏天可以忍受超过100华摄氏度的高温，其适合的温度一般是在50－90华摄氏度之间，夜晚则在这个基础上少10华摄氏度，大多数可以忍受霜冻，但是叶片会受到损伤，不过这些损伤的叶片会为你带来分株苗，如果霜冻持续的时间比较长，将会严重损害你的植株。
肥料：
肥料对铁兰来说并不是必须的，但是施肥可以加速生长，产生更多的花朵和分株苗。施肥是你要非常的小心，不要大意。铁兰对于过量的肥料十分的敏感，过量的肥料或使用不适合的肥料会杀死你的植株。
所以这些给予你一些非常适合于铁兰的肥料：
用一种可容的肥料稀释成1：4的浓度，一个月使用一次。
氮：是某些形式的氨基或硝酸基不要是尿素（尿素需要融解在土壤里，可你的植株没有土壤，因此不适用），尿素也可能会产生内在的损害。
磷：过多的磷不会对植株产生害处，相反可以缓解过多的氮对植株的副作用。
钾：需要大量的，过多的也不会产生伤害。
不要含铜，硼或锌，保证它们的含量补高于0.5％，大多数不建议，但是采用酸性的肥料还是一种选择。
好的配方的比例应该是：1：1.5：2.0或者10：15：20，试着降低氮素含量，使它的比例低于磷或者是钾的一半。
船运与运输：
铁兰运输或船运是比较方便的，如果船运，船运前请浇水两天（或者至少24小时）或者浸泡几小时，但是必须保证你的植株在装运前必须干透，到达地点后要重新浸泡你的植株。
植株在运输时如果带有水而缺少空气流通，如果运输延迟或耽搁，可能会造成植株的腐烂问题（或棕色的斑点）。不要用塑料袋来包装你的植株，也不要用亚麻绳来包装。
什么是铁兰？
铁兰是菠萝花家族的一名成员，它的种名是铁兰也是它的通用名，它也有一些其他的称呼，大多数的人称它为空气植物。它们大约有550个品种（加上很多杂交种），大多生长在墨西哥，美国的南部和部分地区。它们协同一些独特的品种自然生长在新大陆，在佛罗里达州生长的只有16个品种。
铁兰吸收水分和营养绝大多数是靠它的叶片来完成的，极少部分是靠根系吸收的。根系只起到把自身固定在树上，岩石上。根系对植株来说并不太重要，及时除去叶不会造成什么伤害，但是却可以方便你的定植。根系除去后或许不会在生长，但是叶不会为你的植株带来坏处的。
生命周期：
铁兰的生命过程中同样是会繁殖和开花的。在花前或花中以及花后（依靠品种的特性）植株会产生一些幼芽，大多数在自然状态下会产生2－8个幼芽，一般是一年中花后会产生幼芽。所以今年你有一株铁兰，明年可能就是6株，后年就是36株，依次增加。如果你的植株开始丛生，那么明年会比今年更好，会有更多的花苞。不好的一点是每一植株一生只开一次花，但是花后你可以获得分株苗，进而会有更多的花会开。一般来说花期会持续几天到几月不等，这要看品种特性，一般花期是在晚冬到夏季中旬。
一般信息：
铁兰需要水分，它们是生长在空气中，不是完全存活在空气中的。
铁兰不会毒害到动物，这并不是说你的宠物不吃它们，而是你的宠物会存活下来，但是铁兰可能被吃后就不会有了。
铁兰不是寄生植物，所以不会对你的树木造成伤害。
铁兰看起来是棕色的或倾向多枯叶，但是它不会对植株构成危害。
铁兰死亡的主要原因：
它们最初可能得不到适当的管理（它们的主人被告知这些植物只需要浇一点水或者不需要浇水）
它们得不到足够的阳光（它们不能远离窗户或天窗10英尺）。
它们被放置在直射光下，花园一般温度比较高，除非有遮荫的条件或者窗户朝北。
它们得不到足够的水分或过多的水分，鳞茎和幼嫩的部位会腐烂，它们的排水系统也不够好。
铁兰在户外生长需要较多的水分，因为光照和风的影响，它会干的比较快。
请仔细阅读铁兰养护一章中的水分管理，这是种植是否成功的关键。
铁兰的花：
早先提到铁兰一生只开一次花。一旦这些花开始枯萎，我建议你剪掉这些枯萎的花梗，这样会加速分株苗的产生。大多数的品种（不是全部）在花后一到两个月就开始萌发分株苗，当这些分株苗开始萌动是你可以观察植株底部的叶子，它们开始变的松动，好像要枯萎状，不要去处这些叶片（如果太不好看可以修剪一下），这叶片是你的小芽的开始部位，如果你去掉了这些叶片等于说是去掉了即将萌发的小芽，刚开始的时候它们会非常的小，你可能看不到它们，直到几周或几月后它们才出现，这要看品种的特性。
分割小芽：
大多数的人不愿意分去小芽，这样的话植株看上去会很丛生和大块。如果植株上丛生的叶片开始干枯，请轻轻的去掉这些枯叶，如果不容易去掉，说明它还没有死亡，可以修剪一下那个干枯的部位。如果你完全分离这些枯叶，这裂口会重新被其他的植株覆盖。
如果你确定要分掉分株苗，你要等到它们长到母株的1／2或1／3时在进行，因为这时候它们才能单独的存活下去。你拿住母株把分株苗向下轻轻一掰就可以了，很少的品种在分株的时候需要使用很大的力气。不要丢掉母株，用不了多久它们会产生更多的分株苗给你，通常花后它们会存活几年。
铁兰的花期有多长？
铁兰一生只开一次花，但是这并没有结束，它可以产生更多的分株，它可以产生1－12个分株苗（有些品种可以产生60个分株苗）。
把他们固定在树上怎么样？
那是它们自然生长的地方，你可以这样做。
我可以把铁兰固定在浮木（或软木其他的材质上）吗？
事实上你可以把铁兰固定在任何你想固定的地方，只要这些地方不积水。不要把铁兰固定在任何含有铜的木材上，铜对铁兰有毒害作用。可以从铁兰的定植那章获取更详细的信息。
我该怎么定植我的铁兰？
最简单的方法是用胶水，选择一种防水的胶水，这样你的植株能经常获得给予的水分。你也可以用一些钓鱼线，线圈，钉书钉或钉子。具体的参照铁兰的固定那一章。
把泥炭藓覆在铁兰上是不是一个好方法？
不，铁兰需要在浇水后能够尽快的干燥，泥炭藓会带来过多的水分，会造成铁兰的腐烂，一些菠萝花的其他品种需要覆盖泥炭藓，但不是铁兰。
我应该为铁兰浇水吗？
当然你需要，所有的植物都需要水分，请参照铁兰的水分养护那一章。
铁兰需要防冻吗？
是的，当气温降到35华摄氏度以下时请注意采取保护措施，严寒会损害你的植株，如果持续的时间比较长会杀死你的植株。
我需要为铁兰提供多大的光照？
尽量为你的植株提供比较多的光照，但是不能是直射光，植株获得的光照越多其颜色也就越好，请参照光照养护那一章。
我能在我的房子里养铁兰吗？
可以的，我们建议你不要把你的植株放置在远于窗户10英尺以外的地方，近点会更好。
我的猫吃铁兰。。。。。。我该怎么办？
当你埋葬你的猫后。。。。。。当然是开玩笑的。
铁兰不会毒害动物的，这并不是说你的小动物不吃它，动物吃后会没事，但是你的铁兰就不会没事了。
人工补光怎么样？
通常来说白炽灯就足够了，但是带荧光的灯将是一个非常好的选择，可以为它提供更多的卤素，增加光照。
救命，寄生的铁兰杀死了我的树。
我不知道这问题是不是在你的树上，但是这不是铁兰惹的祸。它们不是寄生的，不会伤害你的树。我想你找找关于树木的专家请教一下会更好。
我可以把铁兰放在玻璃容器里吗？
只要你的容器有一个开口，能有流动的空气，一些铁兰可以放在里面种植，请阅读前面的篇章。
附生植物是什么意思？
不是生长在土壤里，是生长在其他的介质上比如树，不是塑料的。
是否有方法使它们开花？
一般情况下它们会在自然的状况下开花，如果你等不急的话，可以用乙烯来催花。好的乙烯气体是在森林里采取的，但是不过你不想到森林里，你可以用半个苹果放在一个覆盖的袋子里一周（不要在太阳底下），如果幸运的话你的植株会在一个月后开花。需要注意的是用强迫它在非自然的情况下开花，花的质量会比较差，并且会较少和降低分株苗。
铁兰来自哪里？
大多数的品种来之美国的南部和部分地区。
不要将铁兰种在我家花园的树上？
我不知道，我没见过你家花园的树，但是如果你是在美国的南部，这是一个不错的选择，在那里有17个原生铁兰品种。
我该怎样种植我的铁兰？
不要去种植你的铁兰，把你的铁兰种在土中等于杀死了它们。
我该怎样浇水？
把水浇在植株上就可以了，你要保证水浸到植株的表面，但是生长点要除外。浇水后植株应该看上去象淋过雨水一样。参考铁兰养护的水分管理那一章。
我应该为铁兰施肥吗？
如果不想可以不做，参考养护里肥料那一章。
它们没有土壤我该怎样施肥？
喷洒在植株的表面，上部和底部，如同你浇水一样，不要让你的肥料浸泡到铁兰，清除多余的肥料。参考养护肥料那一章。
为什么我的铁兰有花香？
铁兰只有很少的品种有花香（在550种里大约有30种带有），但是它的花香会很浓。
植株上的绒毛状的是什么？
这些绒毛状的是它们的种子。如果你采集这些种子，把它种在较稀的网上，你可以利用它们来繁殖。这种方法可能要花很长的时间（一般3－5年），但是量是比较大的。
怎样处理老花穗？
如果它们变的不好看，可以剪除它们（不会对母株造成影响却能促发分株苗的产生）。
我能用胶水固定我的铁兰吗？
可以，我们建议你用E6000的胶水，你可以用除了强力胶水以外的任何胶水。
我需要每年都进行移植我的铁兰吗？
不需要那样做的，如果长的太拥挤，你可以分离一些分株苗，或分离母株，参照铁兰分株苗那章。
如果我的植株长的太大会怎么样？
在你买铁兰的时候这个情况你就应该考虑到，你可以送给你的朋友，如果他有加大的房子，实话说当你买铁兰的时候他会长到成熟时的大小（有一些例子，你应该考虑到它能长到多大,如果这一丛长的太大，可以象分分株苗一样把它们分开。
铁兰可以生长在北方吗？
是的，但是在冬天光照会变的薄弱，你可以将你的植株转移到光线比较好的地方，在你的植株周围用镜子反光也很好，同样可以加强自然的光照。